backcountry journal
Oberalp Pass - Swizterland
first week of May 06
When spring arrived we started wondering about the alpine passes in Switzerland. There are loads of them, many above 2000m. All winter they remain shut and getting from one valley to another can require hours of driving in an otherwise small country.
Here is a very nice long list of mountain passes
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mountain_passes_in_Switzerland
And here is a good map from the same site. It shows all the passes above 1500m. Click to see the full size.
Here is a very nice long list of mountain passes
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_mountain_passes_in_Switzerland
And here is a good map from the same site. It shows all the passes above 1500m. Click to see the full size.
We were after +2000m roads as our aim was to drive to the top and then hike the remaining way up to the surrounding summits. It turned out to be difficult to find info on the opening times for the passes. In the end I email the Swiss tourist organisation and they sent me a very useful and accurate Excel spreadsheet listing a few of the main passes and when they opened. Everything is non-random and reliable in Switzerland, I like it a lot. It is a helpful table so I have made it available in the backcountry resources section.
The next step in the process was to get the topographic maps out. Switzerland without question produces the most beautiful and usable 1:25,000 topographic maps I have ever seen. They belong in frames on the wall. This is a whole topic of it's own. France is a close second in the stakes of amazing 25k topo maps. We have a good collection of maps but I needed to buy one or two maps that
The next step in the process was to get the topographic maps out. Switzerland without question produces the most beautiful and usable 1:25,000 topographic maps I have ever seen. They belong in frames on the wall. This is a whole topic of it's own. France is a close second in the stakes of amazing 25k topo maps. We have a good collection of maps but I needed to buy one or two maps that
covered some of the higher passes. Once we had our resources together and a likely weekend for good conditions we simply jumped in the car and drove for the pass. Before our departure we had already performed a map reconnaissance of the good candidates for nice touring from the roads high point. Driving to above 2000m and then hiking was a novel way of getting ground, and the mild spring conditions made it fun to camp in our tent.
Our first outing was to the pass called Oberalp (2044m) which is easily reached from Andermatt. We were aiming for St. Gotthard Pass (2108m) and the excellent hanging u-valley that we found on the map. St Gotthard doesn't have a lot of great terrain up there, but this one valley looked excellent. At that stage we were not in possession of our very valuable Swiss tourist spreadsheet. We turned up without even knowing if it was open, being early May we just assumed that it was. It wasn't open and we were depressed. Passing through the village I stopped in an outdoors shop to buy a map and chatted to the boot fitter (who amazingly recognised me from my infrequent visits over the season). He pointed his finger in the other direction and suggested Oberalp. Of course! Just take the road out of town, drive up the side of a long since melted low level ski resort and you are there. We got up there and scoped out a very obvious tour up a W facing shallow valley to a col. It was late in the day so we headed down to the next valley and into Dissentis for a beer and to find a camp site. We ended up spending that night on a grassy lump next to a nice rocky stream. We were tucked well up a little valley and no one could see our spot. It was a nice place to sleep.
Our first outing was to the pass called Oberalp (2044m) which is easily reached from Andermatt. We were aiming for St. Gotthard Pass (2108m) and the excellent hanging u-valley that we found on the map. St Gotthard doesn't have a lot of great terrain up there, but this one valley looked excellent. At that stage we were not in possession of our very valuable Swiss tourist spreadsheet. We turned up without even knowing if it was open, being early May we just assumed that it was. It wasn't open and we were depressed. Passing through the village I stopped in an outdoors shop to buy a map and chatted to the boot fitter (who amazingly recognised me from my infrequent visits over the season). He pointed his finger in the other direction and suggested Oberalp. Of course! Just take the road out of town, drive up the side of a long since melted low level ski resort and you are there. We got up there and scoped out a very obvious tour up a W facing shallow valley to a col. It was late in the day so we headed down to the next valley and into Dissentis for a beer and to find a camp site. We ended up spending that night on a grassy lump next to a nice rocky stream. We were tucked well up a little valley and no one could see our spot. It was a nice place to sleep.
The next day we headed back up to the pass with perfect weather. There was one other group of two already part way up our route and no much else going on, which was good as there had been a snowfall two days earlier hat left 8 inches of fresh snow. By now the fresh snow was not so fresh, but it was better than 20 day old freeze-thaw ice. The hike up was only about 600 vertical meters and quite easy and quick, although a little bit warm. It was a very nice place to be, and we had it all to ourselves. Being spring we decided to take our dog up with us. In classic dog fashion he ran back and forth the whole time and easily covered 4 times the ground that we did.
The snow on the ascent was stable, but we still avoided obvious wind loaded areas from the recent storm. There had been 2 days of sunshine since the snow fell and it had already transformed into quality corn. Conditions were good.
The snow on the ascent was stable, but we still avoided obvious wind loaded areas from the recent storm. There had been 2 days of sunshine since the snow fell and it had already transformed into quality corn. Conditions were good.
Just as we were nearing the top and a nice steep bowl that we intended to start our descent with a skier popped over the ridge from the other side, then a few more, then about 10. It was kind of confusing as they just kept coming and all looked the same. As we hiked the last stretches of the now windy ridge to the summit they all started riding down. For a second I thought our entire descent was about to be ridden all over before we even had a chance. But it turned out that they were a squad of Swiss Army soldiers on a training exercise. They all looked the same as they were all in camouflage uniforms. They weren't there to ski and so our descent was largely left untouched as they made an orderly descent.After lunch near the summit we took off and the dog chased us down. The snow was fund and easy to ride and the terrain gentle and mostly very harmless. The dog was bursting trying to catch up to us so we would stop after short riding stretches and the take off again with him belting down behind. The corn was supportive enough so that he could run very fast and by the time we reached the bottom both of us were smiling and laughing and the dog was exhausted. It was one of the most enjoyable tours we have done, a complete success and a memorable day of fun.
It seems a tradition that mountain passes have a restaurant and bar that stays buried shut all winter and does business once the pass is open. When we returned to our starting point on the pass we sat down for a nice beer outside in the sunshine. The Army guys were there having a drink and so were a few motorbike riders out for a day of riding the tight mountain roads. Switzerland is a fun place.
It seems a tradition that mountain passes have a restaurant and bar that stays buried shut all winter and does business once the pass is open. When we returned to our starting point on the pass we sat down for a nice beer outside in the sunshine. The Army guys were there having a drink and so were a few motorbike riders out for a day of riding the tight mountain roads. Switzerland is a fun place.
Nearing the top at 2600m, an all time altitude high for the hound.
The next three clips are average quality mpeg files filmed with my digital camera. Each one has my girlfriend and dog enjoying the spring corn.
He starts off following her but gets distracted by me just standing there (filming) and requires a bit of encouragement.
The final clip. Starting off as tiny dot he almost breaks himself in half running so hard. This area really is one of the most gentle and fun back country touring spots for a mild spring day.