backcountry journal
Grimsel Couloir - Switzerland
first week of June 06
My girlfriend and I were out exploring for late spring back country terrain. As we drove around a bend this valley came into view, and so did the couloir in the distance. I stopped the car immediately, jumped out and within seconds was yelling back into the car window like an excited kid: "do you think people ride it? Lets go and have a closer look!" By the end of that day I was committed to hiking and riding our little 'discovery'. For various reasons we we not able to give it a go for another 4 days.
Close up view
This couloir is an absolute text book classic. Very aesthetic and a funny mix between easy access and hard access. This valley connects the Furka Pass and Grimsel Pass in Switzerland and in winter, these roads are shut. The only way to reach the valley is to walk for about 2 hours. In the first week of June the roads start to open. The above pictures were taken from the Furka Pass at about 2500m. There was loads of snow left. Once the roads open you can drive to the top of Grimsel Pass visible on the right of the above shot. From the top you simply hike left to the top of the couloir around the back of a lake. Then ride down and get you friend to pick you up.
We didn't take this road option as I really would prefer to hike up something before riding it. When the day came to give it a go I parked the car at the bottom and started my hike whilst my girlfriend walked along another road to a point where she could film. Unfortunately the weather was bad. We had been on a long 8 hour tour in perfect weather the previous day and this was our last available day in the area.
As you can see in the picture below the entire top third of the couloir was in thick clouds. At the bottom of the valley there was rain and sleet. At the top of the couloir it was very windy and blowing horizontal ice crystals and snow. Although terrible conditions, it felt great to be back in winter mode after so many weeks of warm weather spring riding.
We didn't take this road option as I really would prefer to hike up something before riding it. When the day came to give it a go I parked the car at the bottom and started my hike whilst my girlfriend walked along another road to a point where she could film. Unfortunately the weather was bad. We had been on a long 8 hour tour in perfect weather the previous day and this was our last available day in the area.
As you can see in the picture below the entire top third of the couloir was in thick clouds. At the bottom of the valley there was rain and sleet. At the top of the couloir it was very windy and blowing horizontal ice crystals and snow. Although terrible conditions, it felt great to be back in winter mode after so many weeks of warm weather spring riding.
Angle: 40-45 at the best. 30 at the very top and bottom. Just a nice steady chute.
Vertical descent: 450m.
Aspect: north east
Place: Switzerland. Not in nor near a resort, just off the side of a road which only opens in June.
Time of year: June
Vertical descent: 450m.
Aspect: north east
Place: Switzerland. Not in nor near a resort, just off the side of a road which only opens in June.
Time of year: June
The top third of the chute was obscured, but we gave it a go anyway.
Hiking up was enjoyable as it was the first time I had hiked off alone like this. For 2 peaceful hours I enjoyed the exercise and my thoughts. Once I disappeared into the clouds I really felt free and alone. It was good to reach the top of the couloir and have a quick lunch but after a while the wind started to penetrate and I was getting cold. The view wasn't so good either: I couldn't see a thing.
Besides the fact that I had to put in the boot pack myself, the climbing was quite easy on wet deep slush at the bottom that progressively became harder as I climbed. The night had been cloudy and not quite cold enough to re-freeze the snow from the previous day's sunshine. About half way I the surface became crusty with my foot punching through on most steps. Once in the clouds the snow was good: frozen hard enough that my crampon points only penetrated 1cm or so. This made the climb easier and faster. At the very top the snow was wind blasted enough that I could roll hazel nuts down the slope as I had lunch.
Besides the fact that I had to put in the boot pack myself, the climbing was quite easy on wet deep slush at the bottom that progressively became harder as I climbed. The night had been cloudy and not quite cold enough to re-freeze the snow from the previous day's sunshine. About half way I the surface became crusty with my foot punching through on most steps. Once in the clouds the snow was good: frozen hard enough that my crampon points only penetrated 1cm or so. This made the climb easier and faster. At the very top the snow was wind blasted enough that I could roll hazel nuts down the slope as I had lunch.
Over the week there had been about 30cm of very late spring snow. Initially this was a concern for me but I found that most had been blown out of the couloir and the remainder had transformed and bonded well with the underlying base. As is typical after fresh snow, there were a lot of big pinwheels on the surface. The walls of the line are very rocky and as they warmed in the sun they released lumps of snow, forming the very common snowballs and pinwheels. There was an extensive patch of snowballs about half way up, some of them easily knee high. On my descent I took a quick break as I approached this rough patch to assess the best path through. Unfortunately I couldn't get to the line I wanted and lost a lot of momentum negotiating my way around the obstacles. Just as I was almost through them I attempted to turn around a big lump but tripped over it and took a quick cartwheel. Luckily I was not going very fast at all and the snow was soft. Had I been going faster on harder snow I might and had a few more cartwheels to deal with before regaining my edge. But in this case I jut flipped over once very quickly and go going again.
The riding was much better at the top in the clouds. Visibility was poor but the surface had been wind scoured and was very smooth, consistent and fast. As much as I would have loved to open it up in this area I decided to take it slow as the viability really was quite bad. Although hard and smooth, the surface was yielding enough to get a good solid edge every turn. I was riding in the clouds for exactly one minute. Once I popped out of the clouds the riding became easier but the snow rapidly softened which is an effort on tired legs.
Judging by the shape of the chute, plus the water I heard under the snow and the lake at the top, I think this sis a summer time waterfall. I have no idea if people ride it, I can only assume that they do. I saw no signs of any other activity when I was on it but the pass road had only opened a few days earlier.
I was amazed that my girlfriend wanted to film. She was in windy wet weather for almost 2 hours watching me slowly climb then quickly ride. Her filming point was ok but it couldn't see the bottom bit and the run out. Plus without a tripod and with cold shivering hands it is a bit shaky. In addition to all of these filming challenges, the top third of the line was obviously entirely in the clouds. We have a set of walkie-talkies and from when I drop in until when I appear below the clouds a whole 60 seconds of riding had already elapsed. And of course the light conditions where about as flat as you can get and the contrast in the film is black rock or white snow. No colour or clarity. The entire descent took 3 minutes and 25 seconds. I am amazed that she wanted to endure all the waiting and sleet just for 3 minutes! She is a great girl for filming.
During the footage you can hear my dog grumbling and growling at something.
The riding was much better at the top in the clouds. Visibility was poor but the surface had been wind scoured and was very smooth, consistent and fast. As much as I would have loved to open it up in this area I decided to take it slow as the viability really was quite bad. Although hard and smooth, the surface was yielding enough to get a good solid edge every turn. I was riding in the clouds for exactly one minute. Once I popped out of the clouds the riding became easier but the snow rapidly softened which is an effort on tired legs.
Judging by the shape of the chute, plus the water I heard under the snow and the lake at the top, I think this sis a summer time waterfall. I have no idea if people ride it, I can only assume that they do. I saw no signs of any other activity when I was on it but the pass road had only opened a few days earlier.
I was amazed that my girlfriend wanted to film. She was in windy wet weather for almost 2 hours watching me slowly climb then quickly ride. Her filming point was ok but it couldn't see the bottom bit and the run out. Plus without a tripod and with cold shivering hands it is a bit shaky. In addition to all of these filming challenges, the top third of the line was obviously entirely in the clouds. We have a set of walkie-talkies and from when I drop in until when I appear below the clouds a whole 60 seconds of riding had already elapsed. And of course the light conditions where about as flat as you can get and the contrast in the film is black rock or white snow. No colour or clarity. The entire descent took 3 minutes and 25 seconds. I am amazed that she wanted to endure all the waiting and sleet just for 3 minutes! She is a great girl for filming.
During the footage you can hear my dog grumbling and growling at something.
Looking down after having climbed a little way. Still well below the clouds.
Looking up as I approached the clouds
Moments before I vanish into the clouds. Looking down to the road and river below
